Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Ouray Ice Climbing Adventure

I was successful in talking Jon into trying Ice Climbing this past January. I didn't have to talk very  much, he jumped at the chance pretty quickly. With our goal of climbing the Kautz route on Rainier, and then Liberty Ridge the following summer, we thought it would be best to take an ice climbing class. Where better than in Ouray Colorado, home of the Ouray Ice Park. We hooked up with San Juan Mountain Guides and created a custom class just for me and Jon. The Heggen-Smith Liberty Ridge custom class consisted of two days in the Ice Park, then one day on an alpine route in the nearby mountains to test our new skills.  Our guide and instructor, Dave Ahrens, was an excellent teacher. We learned ice axe and crampon placement on vertical ice, placing ice screws, building V-thread anchors and learning basic multi-pitch ice climbing in an alpine environment. Below are some shots of both of us climbing in the park.


Jon and me at the ice park overlook


Learning how to build a V-thread anchor



Dave belays Jon up the his first ice climb





















Dave and me at the base of the climb


This is our alpine route on the 3rd day. This natural ice flow is a good 200' wide and had some strong WI4 sections on it. 


Learned a lot and had a great time. Sorry, no pictures of the pints of Guinness, Irish egg rolls or spicy leprechaun balls.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Next stop, Mt. Shuksan

I've been eyeing this beautiful peak for the past 25 years, waiting for the opportunity to reach it's summit. After a failed attempt about 6 years ago due to bad snow conditions, it's been on my short list of peaks to climb. Over Bulleit one evening in the Beartooths, I convinced my friends Al and Jon to join me in late August. Jon invited his trainer, Mark, and the 4 of us headed out on what looked like another beautiful summer weekend in Washington. 


Alan, Mark and Jon - Mt. Baker in the distance. I skipped the first 2 hours of slogging through the forest and started shooting when we broke out of the trees.






Our camp at 6200', on the edge of the Sulfide glacier.


100' from our tents was a beautiful snow-free ridge, perfect for resting, eating and watching the sunset.











The next morning, we woke at dawn and got ready for the climb


Sunrise on Mt. Baker 


Heading out from camp toward the summit pyramid



The summit pyramid in the distance on the left looks pretty intimidating from this angle



At the base of the pyramid, we prepare to scramble up the gully



Gully scrambling - not many photos as my hands were occupied


Linticular cloud covering Mt. Baker 


On the summit!


The first of several repels coming off the summit




Our route up the summit pyramid




Trip details:
Summit elevation - 9131'
Trailhead - 2500'
6631 total elevation gain
12 miles total