This blog post is dedicated to our friend and fellow climber Jon, who two weeks ago was planning to join us on this classic climb of the Kautz glacier on Mt. Rainier. As fate would have it, he was injured in a fall on Mt. Shakespeare and was unable to join us. At the last minute, Jacob was able to join us, and our party of 3 had a successful and beautiful 4 day climb.
The climbing ranger suggested a different approach, which started about 1500' lower at the Comet Falls trailhead. Although it added elevation to our climb up to Camp Hazard, it avoided two days of roped glacier travel and the associated objective hazards, and allowed us to ascend all the way up to base camp on trail and snowfields.
The trail through the forest and eventually through Van Trump Park was very scenic
After a tough climb carrying 50+ lb packs, our first night's camp was welcome. We were the only ones on this side of the mountain, just above tree line with a great view. The weather was clear and hot.
Our next days climb up to Camp Hazard is clear with this view up toward the peak.
We could see clear views of Adams, St. Helens, Hood and Jefferson.
The next morning, we loaded up for the second half of the climb up to base camp. Ascending up through the Van Trump glacier and onto the Turtle snowfield.
Al in his classic pose on a sunny day at Camp Hazard
Although just one day before we arrived there were 15-20 climbers at this camp, we had the place to our selves for the next two days.
First close up views of the Kautz glacier. The first ice pitch in center frame, the upper pitch just around the corner.
Summit day, we climbed the ice pitches in the dark, so no photos. The sun came up red due to fires in Yakima.
The upper snow slopes were very sun cupped. The conditions were much more like late August.
At the summit - SPOT confirmed!
Our route from Camp Hazard up to the summit, via the Kautz and Nisqually glaciers.
On the south rim, we counted about 35 climbers in the crater who had come up from the DC route. On our route, we were all alone.
Resting at the south crater rim near the ice caves.
Al, Jacob and me
On the descent, tricky crevasse maneuvering and sun cup dancing.
The fun starts as Jacob builds our first V-thread anchors for the upper ice pitch rappel.
Al on the first rappel down
Jacob following.
Comet falls on our hike out.
We were all sore after the hike down from 11,300' to 3500' in about 4 hours, but excited to have climbed the route in such good weather.
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