Mountain Adventures: Alta Via 1 - Hut-to-hut trek through the Italian Alps

It all started by dreaming - then pondering routes, pouring over maps, looking up web sites and planning with friends. The time finally came for a trip of a lifetime. The much acclaimed Alta Via One trail cuts through the Italian Dolomites from north to south for 75 miles. We shared this trip with our friends Mike and Val from San Diego, whom we met several years ago on the Haute Route through the Alps of Switzerland.

Day One: Seattle to Milan, then on to Lago Di Braies.
Our day started with a 5 hour plane ride to New York, 4 hour layover, then a 8 hour flight to Milan, Italy. Then we took a total of 4 trains and a bus to finally reach the hotel where our hike begins at Lago Di Braies - 27 hours later.

Somewhere over New York

Milan Central Train Station

In route to Verona, train #2

Train #3 headed north from Verona

This train was overbooked, we were just a little claustrophobic in cramped, tight quarters

A bus finally brought us to Hotel Pragser Wildsee at Lago di Braies

Finally, a place to crash

Day 2 - Lago di Braies to Rifugio Sennes

Lago di Braies in the morning light

Hotel Pragser Wildsee on the lake edge

Some of the sketchier parts of the trail, above and below

All throughout the Alta Via One, the blue triangle indicated the main route, and the red and white signs marked individual trails. They painted them everywhere, sometimes every 100'.

There were also sign posts, pointing all different ways.

One of the many Catholic shrines erected along the trail. We scrambled up the peak in the background for good views back down to the lake and all around the area.

Looking back down at Lago di Braies

Looking ahead to our next night's rifugio.

Our friends Mike and Val Ross

Lots of do's and don'ts in the Dolomites.

Our first rifugio - Sennes

I couldn't decide on which pasta, so I had all 3.

Margaret of course went for the chocolate cake.

Late afternoon showers became standard fare.

Day 3: Rifugio Sennes to Rifugio Lavarella

Woke up to sunny skies and left Sennes and the cows behind.

The trail went steeply down a dirt track, which then turned into a very windy and steep road.

We passed by this hut, Rifugio Fanes, which was only a 10 minute walk from Lavarella.

Rifugio Lavarella, our stop for the night.

Since we got in fairly early, we took a nice walk around the area, taking pictures and visiting with more cows.

Due weizen birre per favore

House wine is on tap, just like the beer. Sold in 1/4, 1/2 and 1 liter amounts, it as surprisingly good and pretty inexpensive. Italians drink a lot of wine.

Our room for 2 was cozy and even included a sink! We weren't so lucky on future nights.

Day 4: Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi

Another beautiful sunny day in the Dolomites. This day we hiked through rolling green hills, gaining elevation until it became a rocky landscape

Reaching the col, our descent was through a very narrow and steep gully. It looked intimidating at first, but as we descended, we found the trail to be in excellent shape. A trail crew had recently repaired and built up the trail such that it was very easy going.

We're headed down to that lake below

After hiking down the steep gully, we ascended again through rocky terrain and up to another ridge. We were soon to pass by many World War 1 caves and tunnels.

Rifugio Lagazuoi sits perched on a cliff edge with amazing views from their large deck.

This is their sauna - we passed due to the large amount of people present.

Our afternoon snack of apple strudel and cappuccino became a habit.

Day 5: Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Averau

From the the top of the ridge, we had two options. Either walk up valley, cross the road and back making a long loop to our next stop, or scramble directly down through tunnels excavated during WW1. We chose the WW1 tunnels.

During 1914-18, the pass was occupied by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Italians occupied a stronghold down below, and both sides spent massive time, energy and lives excavating tunnels through the rock mountain. Today, the area has been restored for visitors as an open air museum. The tunnels run for 3600 feet at a 45˚ angle, dropping 750' in height. More lives were lost due to avalanches than in actual fighting in this area.

Here you can see the cable car station at the top of the mountain. The cable car goes to the bottom where there is another rifugio and restaurant.

Various plaques commemorating the WW1 conflict, attached to the rock at the entrance of the tunnels.

Margaret and Val at the tunnel entrance.

A hand rail cable stretched all the way down along the tunnel walls, although there are many intersections where tunnels shoot off to join a maze of passages.

Often there were "windows" in the tunnel walls where guns were stationed.

The cable car about half way down the mountain.

This is a typical room within the tunnels where officers bunked.

The tunnels empty out about 3/4 the way down. The rest is a clamber down steep trails with more cable handrails.

Back on the main trail, we headed to our next rifugio, Averau.

Yes, I was actually there.

This is Rifugio Averau, where we had the best food of the trip. Unfortunately the rain kept us off the beautiful deck below.

Time for refreshments and salty snacks.

Cozy accommodations for 4.

Day 6: Rifugio Averau to Rifugio Passo Staulanza

Leaving rifugio Averau, another sunny morning.

Another rifugio at Passo Gaiu. A beautiful winding road leads over this pass and down into the next valley.

Next time!

Heading back uphill, over two passes and down to Staulanza.

Val communes with the local livestock.

At Citta de Fume, we stopped for a coke - served in style.

At last, we arrive at rifugio Staulanza.

Day 7: Rifugio Staulanza to Rifugio Coldai

Today was a pretty short day, up to a rustic hut run by the Italian Alpine Club

The numbers are times, not km. A fit hiker can always beat the times posted, but we tended to meander, so the times were pretty accurate for us.

No roads serviced this rifugio, but they had a cable basket to bring up supplies from the valley below.

Despite the rustic and simple amenities of this hut, the staff made up for it and it was one of our most fun evenings.

Very small room, but at least is was just the 4 of us and not 12 smelly hikers.

No heat yet, so we had to make do.

We had a pleasant evening of cards and listening to a group of Italian men singing what sounded like old folk songs in Italian.

Typical of each rifugio, they had large mason jars filled with different flavors of Grappa they they flavored themselves with various fruits, pine, hazelnut, cumin, etc. Grappa is an Italian alcoholic beverage distilled from grape pomace (skins, pulp, seeds & stems). VERY popular at the huts. And quite tasty.

Day 8: Rifugio Coldai to Rifugio Vazzoler

Our chillest morning yet, there was just a dusting of snow on the upper peaks.

Today we would hike past of of the more famous climbing peaks called Civetta. We stopped at rifugio Tissi (below) for cappuccino and a pastry.

Rifugio Vazzoler, just in time for lunch outside on the picnic tables.

The alpine garden was not too impressive. We saw many more flowers along the trail.

Some of the rifugios did not have drinking water, but this one had a running spring right outside the door.

Small room again, but at least it was private.

All the comforts of home??

Day 9: Rifugio Vazzoler to Rifugio San Sebastiano

Today's route took us up over Col dell'Orso (pass of the bear) although bears were long ago hunted to extinction in the alps.

This was our first and only lingering snow patch the entire trip.

When we got to the top of the col, we were greeted by a large group of about 50 people (old folks as well as young children). We thought it was a wedding, but it turned out to be a Italian Alpine Club family event, complete with snacks and beverages. We were invited to join them and had good conversation with some Italian club members, getting to know the area.

We stopped for lunch at Refugio Carestiato. It was a sunny Sunday afternoon, and there were a ton of people.

Really good pasta! Homemade Gnocchi and Beetroot Ravioli with Gorgonzola sauce.

Headed down to Passo Duran, to our rifugio for the night.

The owner of this rifugio was very friendly, and gave us post cards of the surrounding areas, as well as tips on some good Via Ferrata treks nearby.

The indoor open fireplace in the dining room was a nice touch.

Day 10: Rifugio San Sebastiano to Rifugio Pramperet

Our hike this day started out along the road for about 1/2 mile, then ascended up into the muck.

A few hours later, we broke out into the high country again and the sun came out.

We hiked by some old sheep herders huts called Malgo Moschesin, which could be used as emergency shelter if needed.

This was a very interesting old abandoned barracks which was fun to explore.

The fog rolled in again, but we were soon at our rifugio for the night.

Small but nice rifugio serving all the standard fare. Our room was bunks for 8 - ear plugs were in order.

Day 11: Rifugio Pramperet to the La Pissa bus stop

Our last day - we decided to combine the last two stages into one day for a couple of reasons. 1) the weather was poor with rain and fog for a good portion. 2) we wanted an extra day in Belluno to explore and 3) the distance was not that far, only 12 miles and most of it down.