We're finally here in Chamonix France, to start our long awaited 16 day Swiss Alps adventure. Margaret and I will be hiking 180km (110 miles) northwest from Chamonix France ending up in Zermatt Switzerland. Talking Margaret into doing this was not as difficult as I thought it would be, since each night we'll have hot showers, meals out and beds to sleep in. We'll be spending each night in either hotels in small hamlets or up in the mountains in huts owned and managed by the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club). Per usual, I am taking loads of photos (more than I can share on this blog). Below some of the highlights broken out by each day.
Day 1 - Arrival in Chamonix, France
Chamonix is a small resort town nestled in a beautiful valley below Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps. The architecture, food and language are all very french, as you would expect. The food was amazing!
Mont Blanc above the village.
This is the Chamonix mountain guide service building, complete with plaques commemorating famous climbers who first summited these peaks.
100 year anniversary plaque of the Petit Dru
Bicentennial plaque commemorating the first summit of Mont Blanc in 1786
My first french beer.
Our hotel in Chamonix, Le Croix Blanche. Highly recommended!
Sunset on the famous Petit Dru.
Day 2 - Chamonix to Trient
Looking back down at the small village of Le Tour and the Chamonix valley.
There are many, many trails criss-crossing the alps, but they are very well signed.
Our typical trail lunch, only the best!
This is a refreshment hut on the top of our first pass, Col de Balme.
Looking back down at Col de Balme, Mont Blanc and the Aiguille Verte in the distance.
Leaving France at this col, the rest of our trip will be in Switzerland. French is still the main language as well as the style of architecture and food for a few more days.
Trient - Each village has it's own Catholic church, usually the nicest building around.
Day 3 - Trient to Champex Lac
As we headed up the valley, the trail followed a bisse, which is a man made waterway directing water for irrigation.
While following along the bisse, we started to hear a pounding sound, like men working on the trail ahead. Around the next corner, we found this... which we still don't know what is was or what purpose it served, but it was very cool!
Heading up towards Fenetre D'Arpette, we hiked very close to the Trient glacier
More creative trail signage
Punk cows
We took a nice break here at Relais D'Arpette for coffee and blueberry crisp.
A junction in the bisse directs water flow in two directions.
Here the bisse follows us down hill towards Champex Lac.
The small hamlet of Champex Lac.
Margaret's goat cheese salad.
My anchovy & caper pizza.
Day 4 - Champex Lac to La Chable
Walking around to the end of Champex Lac, we left the town and headed down through the hillside to La Chable.
The trail goes right through some small hamlets, in between houses and over private farmland.
One of the many crosses erected along the roads and trails.
The horns of deceased prized cattle are frequently displayed on barn walls.
A church built in 1638, where we had a chance to tour the inner rooms.
And for dinner, Margaret ordered another perfect salad.
Day 5 - La Chable to Cabane du Mont Fort
The day started out cloudy, looking like rain. We opted to take a gondola up to Verbier, then start hiking from there.
Verbier is a very popular and expensive ski destination, reminding me of Whistler in BC, Canada.
It started raining as soon as we got off the gondola, with little visibility.
A picnic shelter provided a brief respit from the rain.
Cabane du Mont Fort finally, our first mountain hut.
Cloudy and wet outside, but warm and dry on the inside.
Our room was very basic, but at least we were the only ones in it.
Day 6 - Cabane du Mont Fort to Arolla
This was supposed to be a beautiful hike over 3 passes to another mountain hut, Cabane de Prafleuri, but we ran into a spell of cold weather bringing 8" of snow to the high country.
A little snow had dusted the hills over night, and we even got a brief view out to the peaks beyond.
A little snow never hurt anybody, so we headed up to the first pass without a second thought (except for maybe Margaret). Hiking with us was Megan from London, who we had met briefly back in La Chable, then met up with at the hut. We decided to stick together, which turned out to be a great thing, both for safety and for the great companionship over the next several days.
So far, so good - we can still see the trail markers.
Heading up towards the top of the pass, the snow was really coming down and we could no longer see either the trail or the markers. With a unified decision based on safety, we decided to head back to the cabane and seek a different route to our next destination.
Megan assured us that this was extremely rare to get this much snow in August.
So we decided to turn around and not risk it. Two gondolas, two trains and a bus brought us to the village of Arolla. It also put us a day ahead of schedule, not necessarily a bad thing.
Day 7 - Arolla to Les Hauderes
Looking out our hotel window, it was still snowing the next morning. We suited up and went to the local mountain shop and bought Margaret a pair of gaiters.
The Swiss engineering is legendary, even in their wood stacking.
Margaret, Megan and I met up with Mike and Val from San Diego that morning over breakfast. The 5 of us decided to hike together down to Les Hauderes. The snow turned to rain as we descended into the valley, and let up a bit around noon.
Along with a church, each village has one or more watering troughs. The water continually runs 24/7.
Time to stop and warm up with a coffee break
Day 8 - Les Hauderes to Cabane de Moiry
Fast becoming excellent hiking partners, Mike, Val and Megan set off with us up to Col du Tsate. Mike and Val's plan was to hike on down to Grimentz, whereas Megan, Margaret and I headed up to Cabane de Moiry.
Passing through the small hamlet of Mayens de Motau
Cow sheds with plenty of mooing cows inside
We soon hit deeper snow, but the sun was out and it turned out to be one of the best hiking days.
At Col du Tsate.
Down at the glacier tarn, we parted with Mike and Val and headed up once again to Cabane de Moiry
The Moiry glacier as it flows down from the flanks of the Pennine Alps.
We saw may paragliders in this area. Evidently there was a race going one where gliders take off and land at as many mountain huts as possible, as quickly as possible. At each hut, they receive a stamp proving that they got there.
Cabane de Moiry recently received a more modern addition, complete with picture window looking out onto the Moiry icefall and the surrounding peaks. The accommodations were excellent!. The Swiss Alpine Club is really serious about their mountain hut system.
The dining room were we provided half board accommodations - breakfast and dinner.
Bunk beds in very clean and tidy rooms. The whole place reminded me of IKEA.
Sunset shot taken from the Cabane deck.
Day 9 - Cabane de Moiry to Zinal
Our trek took us down to the shores of Lac de Moiry in the distance.
We quickly walked around the dam at Lac de Moiry, then up and over the next col.
The only Ibex we ever saw.
Descending down into the hamlet of Zinal
Our hotel and half board accommodations for the evening.
We met back up with Mike and Val and enjoyed yet another bland Swiss beer.
Au Fut indeed!
Day 10 - Zinal to Grueben
Margaret, Megan and Val.
We passed small houses like this one frequently.
More cows on the trail.
The most interesting wildlife we saw, a red fox catching and eating grasshoppers.
Just in case you weren't sure which way to go...
Not so well marked signpost, Val checks to see what the guide book says.
And more checking of the guide book.
We stayed here at the Hotel Schwarzhorn.
Day 11 - Gruben to St. Nicklaus
One more col to ascend, then down to the valley.
Heading down from Agustbordpass towards St. Nicklaus
Sitting on the edge of a cliff overlooking the valley, the hamlet of Jungen had a small self service gondola which we took down into St. Nicklaus, saving us 800m of steep descent.
Day 12 - St. Nicklaus to Zermatt
There he is, St. Nicklaus himself in the center of the town roundabout.
We could have taken the train to Zermatt, but that's for wimps. We hiked the 18km, and it turned out to be a very nice walk up the valley.
Yes, these are real goats staring down at us from the roof.
Margaret sees a few friends and exercises her chicken charming skills.
Looking for a lunch spot in Randa.
Waiting for our Rosti.
Caution - sheep crossing!
Our first view of Zermatt and the Matterhorn
Dinner in Zermatt at the Brown Cow Pub
Thus ends our Chamonix to Zermatt trek, the Walkers Haute Route. Margaret and I spent 4 more days in Zermatt, hiking and exploring the area. Zermatt is an amazing area with some incredible hikes. I'll have a separate blog post for those days coming soon.
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